If you’ve ever wandered around a construction yard, warehouse, or event site, chances are you’ve seen a scissor lift—those boxy, elevated work platforms that fold out like an accordion to let workers reach high spaces safely. As a used scissor lift supplier, I’ve spent thousands of hours inspecting these machines, and I can tell you: a used lift that looks good on the outside can hide expensive, dangerous issues if you don’t know what to look for. I’ve seen buyers bring home a $5,000 lift that died two weeks later because they skipped a few key checks, and another buyer walk away from a machine that looked fine but had a cracked base that could’ve collapsed mid-job. This isn’t about being a mechanic (though knowing a little about hydraulics helps)—it’s about breaking down the inspection process step by step, so you can buy with confidence. Used Scissor Lift
First, start with the big, obvious stuff before crawling under the frame or running the engine. Take 10 minutes to walk the perimeter of the lift, no machinery running yet. Check the tires first, especially if you’re looking at a rough-terrain scissor lift (the ones with big, knobby tires for dirt and gravel, not the narrow, smooth ones for warehouse floors). Look for cuts, bulges, or uneven wear— a cut in a tire’s sidewall can blow out at 10 feet high, which is a disaster. If it’s a model with solid tires (common for indoor lifts), make sure there are no chunked or cracked rubber chunks; even a small chip can get bigger and throw off the lift’s balance. Next, check the base frame, that thick metal plate the lift rests on when it’s stowed. Look for dents, welds that look sloppy or have cracks, and rust that’s flaking off. Rust isn’t just cosmetic—if it eats through the frame, the whole machine’s structural integrity is compromised. I once turned down a popular model because the base had rusted through in a spot that’s supposed to bear 70% of the lift’s working weight; the seller swore it was “just surface rust,” but a magnet test proved it was structural. Also, check the outriggers—those adjustable legs that extend when the lift is raised. If they’re bent or don’t extend evenly, the lift can tip over even on level ground. Ask the seller to show you how they lock into place; some have pins that slide into holes, others have hydraulic locks, and either way, they should engage smoothly without wiggling.
Once you’ve walked the exterior, it’s time to turn the key and do a pre-start check that’s not just going through the motions. Start with the controls. Every scissor lift has two sets of controls: one at the base (for moving the lift around on the ground) and one at the platform (for raising/lowering and positioning). Test both—no exceptions. Stand at the base, turn the ignition on, and wiggle every control on the base console. They should be tight, not loose or sticky. Then climb up to the platform, make sure the gate is locked (that’s a key safety feature—if the gate won’t shut, don’t even turn the lift on), and test all the platform controls. Pay attention to how responsive they are: if it takes two seconds for the lift to react when you push a button, that’s a sign of hydraulic lag, which usually means worn seals or low fluid. Also, check the emergency stop button on both consoles. Press it, make sure it cuts power immediately, then reset it. If it doesn’t, that’s a quick fix, but if it sticks, it could be a sign of older wiring that might fail when you need it most. Next, check the battery or fuel, depending on the power source. Most used scissor lifts are either electric (battery-powered, great for indoor jobs) or diesel/gas (for rough terrain). For electric models, check the battery’s age—most last 3-5 years, so if the labels on the batteries are faded or have a date older than 4 years, ask the seller about replacing them. You can also test the battery’s charge: turn on the lift, and if the platform lights dim when you try to raise it, the battery’s weak and will need to be replaced soon. For gas/diesel lifts, check the oil level, coolant, and air filter. A dirty air filter can make the engine run poorly and burn extra fuel, while low oil can cause the engine to seize up. Don’t be afraid to ask for a recent service record—if the seller can’t show you one, that’s a red flag.
Now, the part most buyers skip, but it’s the most important: testing the lift’s actual operation. This is where you find out if the hydraulics work, if the lift is level, and if there are any leaks that will cost you thousands later. Find a flat, level patch of ground—this is non-negotiable. If the seller tries to show you the lift on a sloped driveway, ask to move it to a level spot, or walk away. Scissor lifts are designed to operate on flat ground, and testing them on a slope will hide levelness issues. Start by driving the lift a short distance (if it’s mobile), and listen to the engine or motor. It should run smoothly, no knocking or sputtering. If it’s electric, listen for any strange whines or hums that aren’t normal. Then, retract the outriggers, lower the lift all the way, and make sure it’s fully stowed (the platform should sit flush with the base, no gap). Now, slowly raise the lift to its full height. As it goes up, watch for any uneven movement—one side going up faster than the other. That’s a sign of a stuck hydraulic cylinder, which could be from dirt in the lines or worn seals. A lift that tilts as it rises is a safety hazard. Once it’s fully raised, stop, and let it sit for 5 minutes. Watch the pressure gauge (if it has one) or just watch the lift’s position. If it sinks more than an inch or two, that’s a hydraulic leak or worn pump—you’ll have to replace parts that can cost 10% of the lift’s value. Now, test the levelness. Most lifts have a built-in level, or you can use a small bubble level on the platform. If it’s not perfectly level at full height, that means the outriggers aren’t adjusted right, or the frame is bent, which is a big issue. Then, lower the lift slowly—don’t just let it drop. It should lower at a steady, controlled pace, no jerking or sudden drops. If it drops fast, the lowering valve is bad, which is a safety risk.
After testing the lift’s movement, check for leaks. Hydraulic fluid is bright red, brown, or amber, and it’s sticky—if you see puddles under the lift, or wet spots on the base frame or cylinders, that’s a problem. Small leaks might just be a loose fitting, but big leaks mean worn seals or a damaged cylinder. I once had a customer buy a lift that had a small hydraulic leak the seller said was “nothing”—three months later, the cylinder ruptured, and the repair cost him $3,000, which ate up half the money he saved buying a used instead of new. Also, check for electrical leaks—if you see frayed wires or corrosion on the console or motor, that can cause shorts, which are fire hazards.
Finally, do a deep dive into the little parts that add up to big problems. Check the pins and hinges—every moving part on the lift has a pin, and if they’re worn or rusted, they can come loose while the lift is elevated. Grease them if they’re squeaky, but if they’re pitted or bent, replace them. Check the safety features: the tilt sensor (it should shut the lift down if it’s too steep, even if you ignore the level), the guardrails (they should be intact and sturdy), and the load capacity. Most scissor lifts have a load limit (usually 500-1000 pounds) marked on the console—make sure the lift you’re looking at matches that, and don’t rely on what the seller says. Also, check the documentation: the model number, serial number, and original manufacturer specs. A quick online search can tell you if the model has any known issues—some brands of scissor lifts have recurring hydraulic pump problems, so if you see a lot of complaints about that model, you can factor that into your offer.
As a used scissor lift supplier, I can tell you that the best used lifts aren’t always the cheapest ones. The ones that run perfectly for 5+ years are the ones that were well-maintained before you bought them. If you follow these steps, you’ll avoid the common mistakes that new buyers make: skipping the perimeter check, not testing the controls or hydraulics, and buying a lift that looks good but has hidden damage. Don’t be afraid to walk away if something feels off—there are plenty of used scissor lifts out there that will work for your job, and you don’t have to settle for one that’s going to cost you more in repairs than it’s worth. If you’re ready to browse well-inspected, serviced used scissor lifts, reach out to our team to discuss your needs. We have models for indoor construction, outdoor industrial use, and event setup, and we’ll walk you through every inspection step to make sure you get a lift that’s safe, reliable, and fits your budget.
Scissor Lift References:
- Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA). "Mobile Work Platforms Safety Requirements."
- American National Standards Institute (ANSI). "Safety Standards for Scissor Lifts."
- Access Industry Analysis International (AIAI). "2023 Used Aerial Equipment Inspection Guide."
- Equipment Watch. "Common Hidden Issues in Used Scissor Lifts and How to Detect Them."
- International Powered Access Federation (IPAF). "Best Practices for Pre-Owned Aerial Lift Purchases."
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